Allen Meadows - Score: 92 (2014 January)

Relatively discreet and reserved for a '97 though the now fully mature and solidly complex nose has opened considerably since the last time I tasted it. The medium weight plus flavors offer good density and power though not necessarily extraordinary complexity though I do very much like the gorgeously textured finish that completely coats the palate. In sum, this is classically styled and quite impressive in the context of the vintage and though it has arrived at its peak, it should continue to drink well over the next decade or so as there is better acidity than one typically finds in the '97 vintage. Note that I have had consistent luck with this wine save for one bottle that was clearly more advanced than it should have been.